GREAT HIMALAYA TRAIL CODE 8
INTRODUCTION
The Great Himalaya Trail (GHT) 10 – How to choose a trek 11
PART 1: PLANNING YOUR TREK
First decisions
When to trek? 13 – Seasons 13 – Festivals 15 – Hinduism 17
Tibetan Buddhism 18 – Bon 18
Trekking styles 18 – Fully independent trekking or independent teahouse
trekking 18 – Teahouse trekking with a guide 20 – Trekking with a
camping crew 22 – Choosing a trekking style 23 – Trekking the
GHT 25 – Treks with a cause 26 – Trek duration 28
Trekking grades 28 – Trail conditions 29 – Trail difficulty 30
Trek summary: East Nepal 32 – Trek summary: Central Nepal 34
Trek summary: West Nepal 36
Before departure
Visas and permits 38 – Maps and walking guides 39 – Equipment 40
Footwear 40 – Trekking poles 40 – Clothing 40 – Packs 41
Sleeping gear 42 – Tents and shelters 43 – Cooking gear 43
Miscellaneous 43 – First Aid kit 44 – Recharging on the trail 45
Typical gear list 46
Nepal and you
Choosing a guide and crew 47 – Trekking as a single female 50
Shopping, tips and money 51 – Your security 52 – Insurance 53
Communications 53 – Dos and don’ts: how not to cause offence 54
Community 55 – Environment 56 – Safety 57
Greetings and blessings 57 – Temple etiquette 59
Health and wellbeing
General health issues 59 – Food and diarrhoea 60 – Altitude
sickness 61 – Looking after feet and joints 61 – Hypothermia and heat
stroke 62 – First aid 62 – Rescue and emergency 63
PART 2: KATHMANDU
History 65 – Arrival and departure 68 – Orientation 68
Where to stay 70 – Where to eat 78 – Nightlife 84 – Services 85
Getting around 88 – What to see 88 – Staying on in Kathmandu 92
Moving on 94
PART 3: POKHARA
History 96 – Orientation 98 – Where to stay 98 – Where to eat 108
Services 110 – Getting around 111 – What to see & do 112
PART 4: TREKKING ROUTES
Main trekking areas 113 – GHT Nepal route summary 115
Kanchenjunga region
Kanchenjunga Base Camp Trek 117 – The Limbu 118 – Routes from
Kanchenjunga Base Camp 122 – Other major trails in the Kanchenjunga
region 122 – GHT Kanchenjunga 123 – Lhomi people 124
Makalu region
Makalu Base Camp 126 – The Rai 128 – Routes from Makalu Base
Camp 130 – Sherpani Col, West Col and Amphu Labsta 130
GHT Makalu 132
Solu-Khumbu (The Everest Region)
Sherpa people 134 – The Himalayan Trust 136 – Everest Base Camp, the
Cho La and the Renjo La 136 – Other major trails in the Solu-Khumbu 142
GHT Solu-Khumbu 142
The Rolwaling
The Rolwaling & the Tashi Labsta 144 – The Bhotia 151
Other major trails in the Rolwaling 151 – GHT Rolwaling 151
Helambu and Langtang
Helambu to Gosainkund 153 – The legend of Gosainkund 156
Langtang valley 157 – Other major trails in Helambu & Langtang 159
GHT Langtang 161
Ganesh and Manaslu Himals
Tamang Heritage Trail 166 – A Briddim folktale 168 – A local legend 169
Tamang people 169 – Other major trails in the Ganesh Himal 171
Manaslu Circuit 172 – The people of Larke & Siar 176
The Ru-Pa people of Samdo 177 – Other major trails in the Manaslu
region 178 – Gorkha to Arughat Bazaar 178 – Tsum 178
Landan Kharka (north face of Ganesh I) 179 – Exit via Begnas Tal 180
GHT Manaslu 180
Annapurna, Naar & Phu
Naar, Phu & the Thorong La 185 – The Gurung 186 – The Manangpa 189
The price of progress 190 – The Thakali 191 – Annapurna Sanctuary &
Poon Hill 192 – The Magar 193 – Side trip from ABC 195
GHT Annapurna 196
Mustang
Mustang Circuit 197 – Baragaunle people 201 – The Lopa 202 – The
Teeji festival 203 – Ghar Gompa 204 – Side trips from Lo Monthang 205
North of Lo Monthang 205 – Southeast of Lo Monthang 206
Other major trails in Mustang 207
Dolpo
Upper Dolpo Circuit 208 – The Evil Lake of Reng 212 – The Legend of
Shey 213 – The Dolpopa 214 – Other major trails in Dolpo 217 – GHT-
Dolpo 217 – Kagbeni to Chharka Bhot 218 – Chharka Bhot to Pho via
Dho Tarap, Phoksundo and Shey 219 – Bhijer folktale 222 – Other routes
to Pho 222
The Far West
Rara Lake Circuit 227 – The Khasas 229 – Khaptad National Park 232
Khaptad Baba 234 – GHT Far West 235 – Pho to Mugu, the Higher
Northern Route 236 – Dolphu to Pho, the Lower Southern Route 238
Tiyar to Gamgadhi 239 – Gamgadhi to Chainpur 240 – Chainpur -
Darchula 243
APPENDICES
A – Bibliography 243
B – Glossary 244
C – Nepal Trekking Agencies 246
D – Wind Chill Chart 250
E – Heat Index Chart 250
INDEX 251
